End. Start here see Approach to the Sukhumi blocks pass with the disgusting way. The only thing that pleases - it still renovating. But it also creates additional problems, and - local horsemen are accustomed to flying at high speeds, not including the lighting to sunset of the last ray of sunshine. And in terms of the dense rain, black sky and mountain serpentine is mortally dangerous. During his stay in Abkhazia, I saw 7 (seven!) large fatal accidents, ie one a day. And this is a very short segment of road. And at the entrance faced by young people, who hastened to the scene in Sochi, a relative, a young kid, who was killed along with his wife. Afterwards, I asked the locals why they did not rein in the young, because the Abkhazians, and so is too little to so ineptly raskidyvatsya young lives? But I just shrugged and sighed sadly in reply. In my opinion, the consequences of freedom and independence, which evolved into permissiveness and lack of authority. They are young, have won the war against Georgia, who they might have something to prohibit? I tried to learn from the guys at a cafe in Gagra what speed limits on roads Abkhazia, but they just laughed at me in response, saying that the rate here is not limited. Well, if the traffic police to stop? Will you give them 500 rubles. And all things! In fact, the speed of all the resort cities of Abkhazia is limited to 50 km / h. But, "PUSH on all cylinders, as you can!" Told me drunk guys. And then got into the BMW and drove off in Sukhumi, on a rainy night. Maybe that's their twisted skeleton of the car I met at the entrance to the capital of Abkhazia republic, but I have not had time to stop and stare - a night in the mountains comes quickly and suddenly. Sukhumi was not very bright city. Going downpour turned it into a solid ankle-deep river - could not handle the ditch inflow discharges. Pointers in the streets, no, I was guided on the track, laid my navigator, which clearly shows the direction and position, quickly picking up the satellites, and landmarks. He brought me to the flooded water Literary waterfront, once proudly suhumtsev, conducted by the Botanical Gardens and ... returned to Gagra. Place to stay in Sukhumi, I could not find it. No, of course, we could stop and ask where there is a nearby hotel, but my principle of travel is simple - look around, choose what you like, and stops there. I would prefer to return to Gagra, than to dwell in a gloomy Sukhumi. On the morning of the sixth day of rain became a little less, and I made the most distant sally - in Ochamchira. I was told there that can make beautiful pictures of warships lying in the raid. I raced again, for more than 60 km further Sukhumi, on the border with sworn enemies of the Abkhaz - the Georgians. Why did I use such politically incorrect expression in the article? Because I listened carefully to local news. You know, when the Abkhaz news on television talk about how the gathering of the village rejected the return of two Georgian families in their ruined homes they wanted to rebuild and live there, I understand that among these nations there was something terrible. And more than 100 thousand Georgian refugees who previously constituted the ethnic majority in these lands - testimony to this. And the graves of Abkhazians in every field - too. Ochamchira - almost extinct city. Of the 20 thousand people lived here before, there are only 4,5. I once slipped unnoticed downtown and rode down the main street. Suddenly it became very empty. People simply disappeared. Right flashed a military base with the Abkhazian flag, and then dragged along the street abandoned dilapidated houses, courtyards where mandarins were hung on trees. Complete sense of falling into the scenery for the film "Roadside Picnic". On the background of gray, gloomy houses were full of bright orange citrus. Became somehow very uncomfortable, chilly, clearly felt the wind from the sea, building tension of nowhere, there was anxiety. And then the moment of surrealism reached the end - I saw the destroyed houses near the fair-haired boy who kicked the blue ball. Its absolutely Russian, funny baby face contrasted sharply with the surrounding background of devastation, complete solitude and silence. "Boy, and where there vehicles on the roads?" - I asked with bated breath. - "Ships? Hey, mister, are you not here called in, the ships were there, outside the city, but here nobody lives! "- A boy's voice was shrill, a little curious, apparently, he was also wondering what to do in these godforsaken places people by car from Moscow numbers. The man with the Moscow numbers looked at the navigator, and realized that the border with Georgia, he has only 15 kilometers maximum. Thanking the child, I turned to the side of Ochamchira, cursing himself for carelessness. But, frankly, always remembering that moment, I still can not understand where there Russian boy. The house, near which he played was just as broken as everything for many miles around, signs of life - no. Another interesting point: I seem to be photographed (and lots of photographs!) Abandoned houses and tangerines, but the SD-card survived only a couple of shots. Where did all the rest - I'll never know. Once again, I drove Ochamchira in another direction, noting that on the streets of many students and quite a few adults, there are almost no cars. But there is a monument to the victims of World War II. Ships in the roads, too, was not there. In the small harbor modestly stood two custom boats and a freighter. On a small island in specially prepared cages sat a man and fished. They cheerfully waved to me and explained that Russian ships arrived here in early August, then quickly took off and left. Far from the harbor at the edge of the cliff, abruptly leaving the sea, stood dilapidated movie theater, recalling last resort town. Now around the pile of manure, horse sports, and part of the building are splashing in the surf. Suddenly there was a chirping sound, and two helicopters had gone from Sukhumi in the direction of the Gala. A little later I learned that these days in the Gali district intelligence chief was killed the Ministry of Defense of Abkhazia, Eduard Emin-zade. It became clear why the Russian Defense Ministry so strongly advised me to abstain from this trip. Happy Sukhumi looked much friendlier. I dined in these chebureks in the city center, once again drove to the embankment, surprised a large number of military and expensive foreign cars, admiring the gates of the Botanical Garden and turned on the central square. There still stands dilapidated government building. Huge banner "Abkhazia - independent state stretched on pedestal of the monument, which once stood a stone Lenin. Box at the Government House lifeless tracks heavy bullets clearly visible on the facade of the building, burnt streaks lined the side extensions. It seems it started to repair, but until this venture have left for better times. In this building there is also involvement in the modern history of Russia - that Russian special forces dragged away by Eduard Shevardnadze, when he, as president of Georgia, arrived in the rebellious, a little-controlled republic for talks. So the men of Alpha of the building can tell us much more: it is they who during the storm Sukhumi have rescued a former Politburo member and Minister of Foreign Affairs of the USSR, and the like - until now the public is unknown. But hotels in Sukhumi, I never found out. Maybe it was looking bad, but I saw no signs anywhere «Hotel», or, at worst, "shall be flat in the capital of the breakaway republic. Honestly, in Sukhumi do not want to stop. I thought this is my journey through Abkhazia ended. Already dark, I drove to the border post with Russia, as he suddenly realized that the cars on the road became too much. Close to the border stretched a huge queue of cars wanting to get on our side. Attach to the end of the queue, I politely asked the neighbors, for how long? The answer was pessimistic: most likely, on the night. Immediately found shady characters, a really burning desire to Russian journalist's home for a modest fee - 3000 USD. No, do not bypass the border, just for the money all miraculously razdvinetsya, and I find myself first. Thinking, I refused and went back to sleep in Gagra. And I was right. The next day ended with rain at all, and I managed to photograph a beautiful sunset in the sea, once again a great barbecue dinner, eat healthy and delicious food and the Abkhaz have then an hour to rush the border. To the border with Abkhazia - 1700 kilometers, yet somewhere 800 km, I dashed off to the republic. Tucked under the string Council in Russia, petrol and diesel in Abkhazeti road, a liter of diesel costs 27 rubles., The same will have to pay for the 95 th, of course, if you find it - very few gas stations. Basically, hang signs, "AI 92", fuel quality is extremely low, the stations themselves - antediluvian as nedolivayut find no way. But this is not the worst. The most terrible thing out there - boredom. Youth in Abkhazia is not going to rest, there were no recreational facilities, except as tasty cafes. No nightclubs, theater quality below average, hackneyed movies, but plenty of sea, exotic nature and healthy air. Resorts Abkhazia will suit a family or people seeking solitude and silence. But still, it was one of the most interesting trips in the past year. I will definitely come back to Abkhazia, again to further explore the cave to admire the lake Rizza, swim in the warm and gentle Black Sea, and be sure to look into the Kodori Gorge - a sudden, you never know, I'll be able to see the monuments of ancient architecture, generously scattered in a beautiful, independent country - Abkhazia. Things to do: Ritsevsky Reserve, Lake Small and Big Rizza, Amtkyal, Athos monastery, caves, waterfalls Gegsky, Anakopia citadel.
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