Shumel harsh Bryansk forest ... "About the Bryansk I only knew these lines from a song written by composer Sigismund Katz and poet Anatoly Safronov, in 1942, commissioned by the guerrillas. Now this song is a hymn to the region and city, and the story deserves more scrutiny. In Bryansk, I drove by the Smolensk region. I know that there is a direct route M3 Moscow - Kiev, but I could not deny the pleasure to call on friends in the "atomic city" Desnogorsk (Smolensk NPP). And it was not in vain, because you can separately describe the A141 road that leads from Smolensk in the Bryansk region. Gentlemen chiefs regions where did the money allocated by the Federal Program on arrangement of roads in Russia? Because of this circuit can not drive! On two-lane road, you can leave not only suspension, but his head - so there's broken asphalt. A terrible rut constantly threatens to disrupt the car into a ditch! Luckily, I was driving my Subaru Tribeca, Japanese four-wheel drive crossover. By car easier just to collect parts at a distance of more than 100 kilometers. The new Tribeca is good, but is especially good appetite. Have not seen such a voracious machine. I understand that the volume slider in 3,6 l rather oblige, but when the tank at 55 L allows only 300-350 km of track - it's overkill. Approaching the Bryansk, I was afraid that leave local motorists without fuel. Particularly sad to see the inscription that "the only oil company Yukos performs quality control on the territory of Bryansk region. Entrance on the west side of Bryansk pretty sad: on the main street of highway situated mass of firms to provide funeral services. Black gravestones along the walls, the assurance that their graves "best" and memorials from 3100 rubles! Though now order it in the future. She remembered the "12 chairs" and Bender. How nice that "bride" I brought with me. Although later, looking more closely, sorry. The city has many beautiful young girls, dressed very frivolous, as observed in recent times to Leningradki and Tverskaya street in Moscow! Young people with absolutely no complexes, I was even uncomfortable photographing kisses and hugs to Sq. Lenin, who started a couple. No, really very young and very beautiful people! And this despite the fact that the city is considered one of the oldest in Russia. Shumel harsh Bryansk woods, down the blue mist, and pine heard the neighborhood, as were a victory for the guerrillas first mention of Bryansk are 985 n. er. Then the settlement was referred to as ukreppost on the banks of the Desna river. And you know, as then called the city? Debryansk! That's right, the word "jungle". Then at these locations were considered impenetrable forest, dark and deadly. Now they are much thinned, although the city itself, lying on both sides of the gums, still immersed in the greenery. And the impression that this growing herbs, for whatever their own laws, little obedience to the wishes of its order growth, turning it into a park or parkway. Still get the "urban forest", of which the official in the middle of Bryansk two, and informal - the entire city. Leisurely drive through the main streets. Crossover with the Moscow numbers looker passers-by and tourists, but to meet with me face to face for some reason they refuse to, look right allotment. However, interest in the car is quite understandable - in a city dominated by "VAZ" and the classic nine-dvenashki. Local roads they suffer badly, as evidenced by the broken statue pieces pennies at the entrance to the city. At the post DPS stops me a policeman and a long detailed inquires about ... Subaru. The purpose of my visit, it is of little interest to travelers Muscovites here are accustomed to, though, and their dislike. Not the way to beat the face at the mention of the fact that you are from Moscow. Just in private conversations Local complain that prices have soared much and blame "come in large numbers" of first-throned. Added confidence to the Muscovites, and the recent Cup of Russia on football, during which the Spartak fans set fire to the plastic chairs right on the stadium. Relax in the city of Bryansk is where. Urban forests greatly aided by the nature of privacy, and the complex of lakes and ponds near the gums is an irresistible desire to take water treatments. Water in the river relatively warm. The cost of beer and hotel rooms are lower than in Moscow, but here is the latest quality leaves much to be desired. However, if you spend a vacation with children, they are very pleasant - friendly beach, cheap amusements, including water, the ability to rent a scooter, boat, and all sorts of fun for not a lot of money. But the price of a taxi is much higher than in neighboring Smolensk. There's a ride to the town for fifty dollars, then the initial cost of the trip from 150 rubles. A long ride to the outskirts. Bryansk is divided, as it were into two parts: the top that runs down the stairs and narrow streets to the gums, and bottom - a more modern, with typical buildings and huge empty areas. There is no forest, he ruthlessly cut down in favor of a panel of apartment and cottage settlements. In the top part of the administrative complex at the Square. Partizan skyscraper is crowned with a clock tower, which is considered one of the main symbols of the city. On the arms of Bryansk freely located mortar - at the end of the XVIII century at the foot of the mountain Intercession was established plant "Arsenal", which produces brass cannon, mortars and other weapons. During the Soviet era weapons factory has been redeveloped into a factory road cars in the late XX century, nearly died in a Bose, but now, after the carve-up of shareholders, quietly get out of a deep crisis. But I was curious: one of the largest plants for road engineering in Russia, producing modern graders, pavers, can not make normal roads in my area! Paradox - the shoemaker without shoes. Having come dine in a modest-looking cafe "Ivanhoe," I realized where leave Arsenalnoye force. This room I have not seen in any city of Russia! Completely stylized antiquity, it was adorned with suits of armor and armor of medieval knights, stuffed birds and hunting trophies, made so great that instead of dinner had to first take on camera. "Yes, it's all done here in Bryansk - anticipated my question waitress. - Where exactly - do not tell, it seems at Arsenal. Buyers for such products lack, Moscow lot orders. So much for the road, here and asphalt cars. But beautifully unreal! True, and the account in this cafe was quite a Muscovite - 30 euros per person. At the time of calculation, I realized why the young couple, who came a little later in our cafe, ordered only ice cream and mineral water - all the same money for "good life" in the city lacks clearly not for everyone. I can not help noting that the city reigned peace and order. Citizens peacefully rest: who in fountains, one on the shore, who was just sitting in the parks. Met a lot of special white-blue booths with the word "Police". True, the police, I saw only one. All the others seem to have a purely psychological effect. But very drunk in the city has not seen, despite the weekend! There was even a little surprise after Moscow, which spits out Friday night clerk's office bleary-eyed, and on Saturday their picks upivshimisya, to observe a quiet drink in the Russian provinces. Viscous and measured people consumes beer, idly exchanging news. Even the bikers gathered at the fountain a separate flock near the Town House of Culture, behave better than decent. No buzz, not rowdy, not rush bottles and, most importantly, not gazuyut like crazy on the streets! On the second day I was ready to admit that life in the province has its own charms, if not one "but" - laziness. In the eyes of many citizens was apparent outright laziness. Of the five people neither could answer, the name of the temple, near which I spent shooting. Especially for them, tell: it's Transfiguration Church (or Church of the Saviour Grobovskaya). Unfortunately, it looks full of remakes, like many other temples in the city of Bryansk. The second world is not spared this city during the occupation, he was almost completely destroyed. Of the architectural monuments survived Pokrovsky Cathedral beginning of the XVIII century and Svenska monastery, which is located 5 km from the city. History of the creation of the monastery is rich in legends, one of which says that its origin Svenska monastery was obliged phenomenon miraculous icon of the Virgin and the Caves of the great miracle-workers Anthony and Theodosius. At one point, the icon disappeared from the modest (at the time) of the monastery and showed up on the branches of a mighty oak. At that time, came to worship the icon of the Bryansk Prince Roman Mikhailovich, who nearly went blind from old age. After praying, the prince saw the light and laid the great temple, which became the center of the monastery. Not without historical humor: the abode stood at the confluence of Sweeney and gums, and at that time was called a pig. In view of the apparent cacophony supreme decree in all documents were ordered to call the monastery Svenska. From this monastery, and bound over the known facts of Russian history. Emperor Peter I was very fond of resting in the shade of an oak growing on the bank of the Desna. It is here that he became acquainted with the beautiful Hannah, planted him a traitor Mazepa. Unfortunately, a lot of love did not last long. Upon learning that the plan a diversion from the Russian Emperor's war with Sweden failed, Hanna had been abducted and drowned in a lake in the woods, which is darkened by grief, and became known as Black. I left the Bryansk through the north exit, on the Moscow highway. Late Sunday night, even the dogs do not care about my departure, not to mention the gas station workers, who account for refuel. Service is not as a class. But on the road there are traffic cops alert to catch drunks on the road. I asked: "And often you come across them here?" Yes, there, driving from hotels and resorts located on this side of the gums. Not so much, but enough to live, grinning captain, returning my documents after inspection. And then I start to goblin. Otherwise I can not explain the fact that twice lost to seemingly straight road M3. Twice I drove past the same turn-Partisan Glade, of which there during the Great Patriotic roamed more than 60 thousand! I've thought that would have to spend the night right on the highway, but then the spirits of local forest relented and, after a couple of hours of shaking on the bumpy road, the car had brought me to the highway near Kaluga. Bryansk woods let me go, acknowledging his own in Moscow visitors What to see: Svenska monastery, Petrovsky oak meadow Partizan, Protection mountain area of ??Partizan, the church of the Transfiguration, an archeological complex of Old Bryansk, many old churches and temples, enchanted forest.
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