Friday, October 21, 2011

Derbent. A crossroads of civilizations

In the territory of the Russian Federation, little towns, which recite even a thousand-year history. Typically, these historical monuments are proud, know and respect. Derbent in this regard and lucky and unlucky. Its age of 5000 years, but it is located in the volatile Caucasus region, on the border with Azerbaijan, so its historical uniqueness was detached from the main life of Russia. On trips to the Russian Caucasus is possible to write endlessly. It is equally possible to write endlessly about Dagestan - the largest autonomous republic within the Russian Federation. On its territory could easily fit into half of Europe, but, even though such outstanding geographic data, the ancient city of Derbent in our country is in this republic apart. All the matter in a unique strategic position. It is located in the place where the foothills of the Great Caucasus mountain ranges come close to the Caspian Sea, leaving only a narrow three-kilometer strip of the plains. That is why the settlement is based here at the end of the sixth millennium BC, was named Caspian Gate or Caspian Pass. The first mention of Derbent, dates back to the VI century BC, he leads the Greek geographer Hecataeus of Miletus. The very same name Derbent comes from the Persian "Darband (gate, gate). I have long lost the habit of driving trains. In an extreme case, I agree to the aircraft, but a ride in Russia - only on the machine. From the windows of a car seen the nuances of life in the outback who never noticed, looking at the greasy wall stations in our cities. To travel to the ancient city of Russia chose Kia Sportage - updated Korean crossover, which recently appeared in dealer showrooms. Actually, the updates here is only slightly reworked front and rear bumpers, headlights and new design alloy wheels. It's still the same unpretentious workhorse, family car travel for all occasions. Quite a spacious interior, roomy trunk, comfortable seat, reasonable control panel - that still need a driver to overcome the 2000 km road? Oh yeah, we need petrol! The idea is that 2-liter engine Sportage «eats" A-92, so that problems with the dressing should arise. The fact that the route for the Volgograd region abruptly ends with high-quality fuel and very high risk of attack "samopal, particularly in Kalmykia and Daghestan itself. So unpretentious car fuel is very important. Given that summer daytime temperatures in Dagestan reaches 40 degrees in the sun, it is not superfluous to have a car with air conditioning. I remember one time to wade through the Kalmyk steppe in the "seven" brothers - after half an hour in the car all you can squeeze and then spread to dry in the sun. It dries in three minutes, and then, after half an hour, it repeats over again. Kia Sportage pleased with his ability to keep the road. But here's the dynamic characteristics of the machine is not very much: in combination with 4-speed automatic 140-hp engine is very reluctant to accelerate the car. Failures after pressing the gas pedal is very high, so you should be careful when overtaking long trucks on the highway. But the bumps and potholes broken M5 highway Moscow-Volgograd "hardly felt, and stability is ensured by the plug-wheel drive. But he and "ate" gasoline. At a speed of 130-140 km / h fuel consumption increased to 13.5 liters per hundred kilometers! And was listed one feature: cost only to transfer control to the cruise-control mode, setting it on the same 130, the computer shows a decline in consumption to 11.5 liters. But only prikosneshsya to the gas pedal or brake, as there is consumption again began to grow. Unfortunately, our two-lane roads are constantly going on a cruise-control is impossible. So that the trip cost is not as cheap as expected - for 5000 km of track has been given almost 17 thousand rubles. gasoline! And this despite the fact that gasoline is cheaper in the boonies for a few rubles, than in Moscow. Of course, maybe it's because of the fact that the engine was not yet run-in (mileage car, when I took it, was only 600 km), but in any case have to be careful, and especially not to drive. In Derbent easiest to get into the federal highway "Kavkaz", which originates in Rostov-on-Don, and comes to Baku. Directly to Derbent gets through 140 km after Makhachkala. And if you pass the central entrance to the city, then you get a magnificent view of the citadel of the Naryn-Kala, pass under the ancient walled city and through a nondescript entrance you find yourself right in the historical center of Derbent. Now there is a lot already rebuilt, so when I passed the checkpoint (invariable attribute of all Caucasian stationary habitat cops), then stopped to ask for directions. "Captain Abdulmagomedov, salaam alaikum! By the castle turn left, there's still time left and enter directly into the Naryn-Kala! "- Traffic cop just anticipated my question, seeing the Moscow numbers. I thanked him and he cheerfully shining eyes, and wished me a happy journey. People in Derbent very kind and helpful, there are a revered ancient laws of hospitality, that only cars drive anyhow. Rules of the road for residents of Derbent written briefs, a real brave should go without rules! Well, not entirely, of course, here I am slightly exaggerating. But in general this conclusion is. Over the city ruled by "Solar fortress" Naryn-Kala with 2,5-thousand-year history, which laid the Shah Kavad of the Persian Sassanid dynasty. A little later, his son, Khosrow I Anushirvan blocked the passage between the mountains and the sea 40 kilometers of ramparts and built a port. All the gates slammed shut. In the fortress also intersect civilization. Now on the territory of the citadel are the remains of palace complexes of different periods. In the east wall - Albanian (ancient), Sasanian and Arab times, in the northwestern part of the bottom - the pre-Mongolian time, and above - the more "modern" buildings XIV-XVII centuries. Derbent ancient times was the main point of the Silk Road, which went on sale in Europe and Asia, so attempts to conquer the city did not stop almost never. At the top, the old part of Derbent, which is adjacent to the citadel - a typical Muslim medieval city with a network of crooked, narrow streets, which go blank facades of the one-and two-storey houses. With mosques, water-fountains and baths. What's interesting: The Caspian Gates were originally Christian center in the Caucasus, evidenced by the archaeological excavations at these sites. Later he became the cultural center of Islam, through which the Caucasus spread of writing, crafts and religion of Muslims. The city has had many periods of prosperity and decline. In the ancient era of huge interest to him showed the Roman Empire, in 66-65 years. BC carried out military campaigns of Lucullus and Pompey in the Caucasus, one of the main objectives of which was the capture of Derbent. It was ruled by Tamerlane, was a member of the Golden Horde, was the scene of fierce wars between Persians and Turks until early 1722 did not come here Peter I. Since then the city goes to the jurisdiction of the Russian Empire, from time to time, passing under the dominion of Persia. But since 1796 in Derbent, firmly based Russian troops, and in 1813 finally joined to Russia. In 1840 he received the status of county town. Dagestan's capital, Port-Petrovsk not even built! Unfortunately, now Derbent almost lost "ancient spirit". When wading through the city by car, we can see that the constant rebuilding of houses and ugly additions to the ancient buildings have caused enormous damage to its historical appearance. Huge hole in the middle of the road, sewage streams, cascading down the slopes, completely shattered streets on the outskirts induce depression. Even pride derbenttsev and around the world, the citadel of the Naryn-Kala, which is listed in the UNESCO list of protected objects, and that does not Restored. And this despite the fact that people from this ancient city is one of the richest men in Russia, which loves to break the Ferrari Enzo on the French Riviera. So far, at some tourist sites hangs announcement: "Attention! Currently, the city of Derbent is unsafe! We strongly recommend you not to travel there, if only for this is no particular reason! "Well, I have little reason to go out to Derbent was the sea. Caspian, for example. Warm and affectionate, bathing season which lasts almost until end of October. Yes, and Derbent, a resort town on the sea, attracts me much more than Makhachkala - heavily polluted capital of Dagestan, which is constantly carried out counter-terrorist operations with the use of heavy military equipment. This whole war deters tourists from the fantastic nature in this country. Fruit trees grow here almost on the sandy beaches in the floodplain of the Samur River, near Derbent, so in general there is a unique sub-tropical forest! It is a pity that the magnificent nature and resorts of the Caspian Sea have become hostages of military clashes in power. Unfortunately, at the crossroads of civilizations has never been easy.

No comments:

Post a Comment