Dombay: family resort

Karachay-Cherkessia lies away from the federal highway M-29 "Caucasus". It would seem, well, what's wrong with that - to pass the extra hundreds of kilometers and turn in Teberda? However, distances in the mountains - a very deceptive thing, looking at the map, you think that's it, everything is close, that's Balkaria, but Cherkessia, between Elbrus - within reach. In practice, the trip to the other end of the mountain ridges of Mount Elbrus requires a separate trip. Least because there is another ski resort. Not reaching Nevinnomyssk is imperceptible twist on Cherkessk. That it is now unremarkable, because lifted indexes, in general there is a large two-level interchange is constructed, translating into practice the ambitious program of "federal roads of Russia." Such isolation is necessary there, because by the M-29 machine are a continuous stream, and execute a left turn is extremely problematic. But here's the turn is passed, a few tens of kilometers - and a severe checkpoint you get in Karachay-Cherkessia. One of the first large settlements on the way - Erken-Shahar - meets the signboard of "sugar factory". Yeah, I enjoy myself on the way back stock of cheap sugar from the manufacturer! The capital of the republic Cherkessk is relatively close to the border with Stavropol. Unfortunately, the transit flow bolshegruzov goes straight through the city, complicating an already difficult situation on the road. After 1,5 thousand kilometers traveled very much want to rest tomorrow in Cherkessk appointment, so decide to stay at the hotel. The prices are very democratic, a double room for a day only costs 1200 rubles. The price includes free breakfast, which also elevates mood. Having decided to drink a cup of tea in the evening, looking forward to try the local sugar. However, the store will be disappointed - the sugar is very expensive and very savory! Saleswoman explains this by saying that the country of its sugars have not seen all goes to Russia, and that is sold, imported from far away. Departure from Cherkessk pretty intense. The city has many suburbs, the road runs right through the settlements, and there are very fond of lying in ambush stand "traffic cops". In Ust-Dzheguta you can admire the majestic dam, which blocks the river Kuban. The speed limit on the dam - 40 km / h and traffic police officers are not asleep. After 60 km we were met by the small capital of the second half of the republic - the city Karachaevsk. It is located directly in the foothills, there came across the first major mosque - Islam is more common in mountainous areas. A further road-155 displays a plateau, directly to Teberda. In spite of February, first going on the sun-drenched plains and feel how slowly begin podstupat high mountains, tapering to a narrow neck. The quality of the roadway is almost everywhere very decent - despite the difficult climatic conditions for the route to follow. Still, after all resorts Teberda and Dombai are among the oldest in Russia. If you take only the former Soviet Union, mass tourism began here in 1925, and the first ascent and ski "pokatushki" from the mountains occurred in the 40 th. After Teberda road becomes more difficult, the last 18 km to the ski resort Dombay pass through the reserve, which thickly growing forest. Now imagine: the sun breaks through the pine needles just barely, but, having risen to the zenith, it is a little heat a little snow, but when once again hiding, freezing instantly forms in wet areas with ice. It's entirely possible when you're after a smooth dry asphalt suddenly take off on an ice trap, and this is all happening on the mountain serpentine. Particularly frisky drive there should not even experienced drivers. In this long journey we went on a new Subaru Forester, which is only in the middle of last year enrolled dealers. Burnishing machines already, but one thing to ride on the crossover on the proposed route, but quite another - to test the car in these mountains. At this SUV installed a 2-liter horizontally opposed the atmospheric engine, which delivers 150 "horses", spinning them up to a decent 196 Nm. The new body and an extended wheelbase creates more space, and the usual Subaru slightly ascetic retreats, allowing travel in comfort. In the back of an old Forester was a swift, sharpened by the speed, but it is a new valyazhen even slightly pompous, that, unfortunately, affects the speed through the various stations. Branded Symmetrical AWD system, whose center is the boxer engine with a low center of gravity, must give a perfect weight distribution and balance in all directions. And this, in his turn, should contribute to the stability and reliability of the wheel adhesion on the road and off-road, regardless of surface conditions and speed. But at high speeds advanced body contributes to the real situation: roll in corners is very noticeable, and the speedy passage of the irregularities is given in the body of lateral buildup - costs a comfortable suspension. The suspension was softer, smoother, more stroke shock dampens bumps at low speeds, but after 120 km / h makes braking a little tense. Yes and the steering on our roads often had. But within a 100 km / h Subaru Forester copes with serpentine slippery road which takes us up to 1600 m above sea level in Dombai. Dombai - a small resort village located on the patch between the mountains. It crossed several streams, so just amazed how brilliantly the builders were able to build here a few hotel complexes. In principle, Dombai - this is the end of the road A-155, from then on you can not drive - balk at the border with Abkhazia. Infrastructure in Dombai already tested in detail. 12 modern hotel complexes with all amenities, it is possible to get more budget accommodation in the private sector. Involuntarily, I began to compare this place to Elbrus in Balkaria and forced to admit that holiday Teberda fits better. In Dombai, unlike Terskol, no crowds of fans wandering the mountain extremes, there is much calmer, family and intimate. In Kabardino-Balkaria, one can ride on Elbrus and Cheget, both small mountains suitable for beginners who have learned to slip from the suburban hills and want something more. And in Dombai space for riding a mountain gives Mussa-Achitara altitude of 3200 m. It is much more gentle slopes, much less rock and less risk of avalanches than on Elbrus. But it can still virgin skating as snowboarding and skiing. Total length of trails in Dombai - about 20 km, so that anyone can find her way. It goes skating is much higher than the village, so an important advantage is that an extensive network of lifts - 12 of them are here. The most convenient and modern, of course, is a "new set of lifts. He picks up skiers right from the middle of the village first before 2270, then to 3035, and finally to the top of Mussa-Achitara - 3200 m. But the price rise here "bite" - 1200 rubles. for a single day passes. However, there is an opportunity to use complex discounts. Separate story - riding horses Karachai. Local mountaineers are very fond of their pets, which received official recognition at the international level. These horses are unpretentious and very hardy, which makes them difficult for horse-climbing, but it is fun I'll leave myself for later, when I come back here in the summer. The village is located on the Dombay Teberdinsky Biosphere Reserve as his staff are very unhappy. Therefore, most of the surrounding roads blocked by gates, so annoying tourists do not spoil the biosphere. In order to capture the car in some places, I had to ask for a special permit from the authorities that issued it to me at my word that I will not write about hunting - hunting in the reserve is strictly prohibited! But there is a possibility to organize it a little further away. Fortunately, the game here myriad - the war in Chechnya had driven the animals to Elbrus. I was not interested in trophies, but to narzan sources ride worthwhile. If only to drive the car on the virgin snow on the gentle slopes of the mountains. And then the new Forester revealed their full potential. I understand why the creators have made concessions racing qualities of the machine - the car moves very well on the road! Smoothly, quietly, without probuksovok he "swam" through the creeks, rode on the virgin snow, took a stone hedge. On this machine really can safely go with my family in the mountains without worrying about the well-being - the buildup at low speeds very well damped and almost palpable, and the smoothness with which it occurs, is surprising. Maximum, where we managed to climb - 2200 m near the climber camp "Alibek." Further not allowed to border guards, said that the road not at all. I travel to Teberda Dombay and really liked it. Here well-established pattern of communication "-local visitors. People interested in you only as a potential client, and nothing more. True, a little more expensive than in the Elbrus area, Kabardino-Balkaria - expensive meals in the hotel cafe and Mount Mussa-Achitara, slightly more expensive service. But here is much calmer and quieter. Rental equipment is the same - for 400-500 rubles for the full set. Automotive fuel, incidentally, is also the same - to 20 rubles. for diesel and the same for the 95 th. Dombay - a great family resort, which is chosen more often and relax, enjoying the view of majestic mountains, beautiful forests and fresh snow on the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains. What to see: a panorama of mountains Mussa-Achitara, narzan sources close to Teberda, climb on horseback in the climber camp "Alibek", Memorial Complex in memory of the fallen in World War II in the New Karachai definitely try to get up on skis!