Planning this trip to continue traveling to Abkhazia, after the hostilities in August 2008. But the fates decreed I had to postpone it, so now to go to South Ossetia, on the anniversary of victory over Georgia. The road to Tskhinvali, the capital of South Ossetia, begins near Vladikavkaz, the capital of the North. Both republics inhabited by a people divided by political will at first, and then the circumstances of the collapse of the Soviet Union. Between the two capitals of the republic of 185 km road, which runs mostly on mountain serpentine. From Moscow, the path starts at the familiar M4 "Don", then at least familiar M29 "Caucasus", by Pyatigorsk, past Nalchik and to the post of "Uzun" that at the entrance to North Ossetia. But the more you can drive faster through the Ardon and Alagir directly to the border, but I made a detour on the M29, drove in Beslan and Vladikavkaz. One is very like to look at the lush greenery of the city, which last time I was deep in his childhood. "Vlad, as he is known in the North Caucasus, still nice and fresh. Sea green foliage covers a large part of it, and the city park would be the envy even the largest Russian cities. But Vladikavkaz - a topic for another trip, and now advance to the Roki Tunnel! Despite all the assurances of friends in that Ossetians are the friendliest people in the Caucasus, my car with the Moscow numbers underwent scrutiny North Ossetian policemen. For the whole route so many did not stop much had to brake on the territory of the Republic of the Orthodox. Maybe it's because of the M29 Nalchik dies, machines are very rare and there are single, right after the road runs into Ingushetia and Chechnya. Maybe so, maybe because the local traffic cops really wanted to meet with a Moscow journalist. So thinking that it was necessary even without violations to leave them 50 rubles, "a beer for my health." The amount is small, but unpleasant. To travel was chosen family minivan Kia Carens, who recently appeared on the Russian market. Carnival did not accept because of the large volume of the engine, and two-liter Carens - at the time. However, to save on gasoline as much as wanted did not happen. Until now, two-liter "Engines» Kia capacity of 122 hp equipped with four-speed automatic. On the road, of course, it is convenient, but cost nothing. 11 liters per 100 km on the highway. Where does this fit? Unfortunately, the version with the mechanics are not inherited, but it would be preferable. After the hour and a half drive on the serpentine road up to the mark of 3 thousand meters, approaching the border post. Remembering the adventures at the entrance to Abkhazia, before preparing a power of attorney and documents. But nothing like this: I just write, give your hands a little piece of paper and told to show it at the exit from the control zone. Then a mere formality, check the Russian passport, foreign is not needed, checking cars and ... I was not even asked to fill out a customs declaration to take the vehicle, not to mention the payment of any insurance and road tax! Wow ... How much control of the stolen machines "will go" way over the border? I understand everything, on the border of South Ossetia and Georgia's military checkpoints, on the idea and the mouse does not slip, but still after the border crossing - the Roki Tunnel. It is here to give a piece of paper which I gave at the gate. Having carefully reviewed it and registering a car in the post, the military opens the gate in front of me, and I drove into the tunnel. It's a pretty gloomy, poorly lit and with a very bad way. Concrete slabs shattered, gaping holes and large cracks, with a set of constantly dripping water. But this is the main tunnel connecting North and South Ossetia, part of the Transcaucasian highway - Transkama. There are still Georgian Military Road, past Mount Kazbek, but after hostilities travel on it is prohibited. It is not surprising that the government of South Ossetia because they want to reconstruct the "Transcom. Leaving the territory of the republic, I understand why. Serpentine down to the village Dzau (or Georgian - Java), runs under the cliffs of layered rocks that are constantly showered. Some landslide buried in the tunnels, the road is laid on open sites. Hangs a sign that the stop is dangerous - possible rock falls or avalanches. It's summer, but snow is huge white spots on the green slopes of the mountains. Cracked asphalt roads with potholes and subsidence so that avtoputeshestvenniku here have to keep my ears open, and the rate of not more than 40-50 km / h, a very high risk of falling into the abyss. Tskhinvali another 100 miles, and suddenly dark - the evening. At your own risk decides to go on an absolutely unfamiliar road, hoping to get lucky and experience. All costs. Along the way were large villages with a central light. Several roadblocks to warning signs about them and the local traffic police. No problems with the GAI officers do not arise. Seeing the Moscow facilities, they did not even make an effort to stop me to check documents. I stop myself, ostensibly to ask the way, and really just a chat - lack of directional signs. He gets to learn that quite near the capital, and it seemed to me that I was going forever - at night on an unfamiliar mountain serpentine especially do not drive. As a result, 100 km completed in two hours. Before driving to Tskhinvali flashed some shade houses, vague outlines of the destroyed buildings. Suddenly floated moon lights completely destroyed the village. Are only the skeletons of the walls, everything else is completely demolished. How then find out it's the top of Tskhinvali Georgian villages. In the capital, late in the evening I met few lights on the signs of the same rare-store shops. But it is on the outskirts, the center is brighter. Day that I arrived in Tskhinvali, saw the opening of the Children's Music Festival, which was attended by guests from many regions of Russia, from Belarus, Israel and the Baltics. Central Square, which is a holiday, is covered, but there is and the hotel "Iriston", which is recommended. GAI explain how to get to another hotel, but there is no seats. The search options recognize that "to live in" Iriston "can not be better to remove the private hotel," and "Alan" - the best in the city, the cost of a decent number of 900 rubles (in South Ossetia, using Russian money). The private sector with a full board would cost 1,5 thousand rubles. That is slightly above budget for the trip, so the food still in the "Iriston. Number of poor, two beds and a semblance of the cabinet, one socket. Administrator blame spreads his hands: the war, they say ... But it's worth only 170 rubles. per day. Throw things at the park Carens closed yard (strongly discouraged from leaving the car on the street - "undress"), which costs an extra 40 rubles. Walk down the street and try to dock seen and heard before, they say, in South Ossetia, all is calm, there is absolutely safe, come on any machine, nothing happens. Well, sort tomorrow, now we must eat. With dinner, too, problems arise. Despite only eleven at night, all cafes and restaurants are closed. In addition to everything in a couple of blocks from the center of the city plunged into darkness - no electricity. People sit in their homes by candlelight, it is clearly visible behind the curtains. Return to the lit center, there is another benefit of working shop. Take the bread and sausage, the saleswoman gave me my coffee ... to bed - tomorrow will be a close acquaintance with once the pearl of the mountains - the city of Tskhinvali. To be continued.
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