This republic is not officially existed since 1993. De facto Abkhazia - independent state. De jure - only now, in August of 2008, Russia acknowledged the existence of such autonomy. Legally, the Abkhazians were hanging in the void of 15 years. It seems that people eat and live, but actually does not exist. I rode in Abkhazia by Adler, through the checkpoint in the village of fun. The first attempt to get into this republic was not a success: me, after three hours standing in line, just wrapped Sochi's traffic cops. The reason for refusal - Lack of a notarized letter of attorney to the machine. We, the journalists on the test car got from official representations, ie from legal entities, they have all the stamps and signatures. The situation seemed strange to me: like in the European Union on the power of attorney, I drove safely, but in the near abroad, a friendly republic, which Russia has just admitted, and all are happy - I can not. And even more surprising to me it was all, given the availability of accreditation from the Ministry of Defense of Russia. Originally, I planned a trip through the Kodori Gorge on the Georgian territory of South Ossetia. Deviate somehow did not like, and I began obbivat thresholds instances. Border guards in Sochi I was told that the claims they have not to my documents, sent to customs. The Customs administration, too, like not mind about my entry into Abkhazia and was advised to go into the management of traffic police of the Sochi region. With Sochi gashinikami not communicate very much like knowing about their severity and cruelty. So you know, for example, that the area of ??Black Sea coast of Krasnodar region - a special area with its gaishnymi rules? Even then, when Russia as a whole did not raise fines in the Krasnodar region already hard at being denied rights of the intersection of the solid. And what's really funny - it was impossible to require consideration of the administrative offense of residence, only on the spot. Kindly stay in Sochi for two more weeks until the turn comes to your business! Incidentally, last year on the air "Auto +" called me and told the audience about the extortion of local traffic police 20 thousand rubles for the imperfect intersection of the solid! So I had almost lost heart, but still went to the Department of Traffic Police at the Sochi region. And then there happened a miracle - when I knocked at the office door, asking questions and counter-cross, one of the bosses (I do not even know his name and I can not thank), fully checked my documents, called on the frontier post and gave the command to "skip a journalist . As it turned out later in private conversations, such a requirement of a notarized power of attorney with the right to travel abroad appears to be due to the fact that the mass of cars stolen in Russia, leaving it to Abkhazia, there are laundered and sometimes comes back. Therefore, the special requirement of such a complex power of attorney is intended to somehow reduce the risk of exportation of stolen cars. As a result, I lost more than a day and about 4 thousand rubles - a life in Sochi is not cheap, and diesel car faster. For this trip I chose the new diesel Hyundai Santa Fe - the amount of engine CRDi 2,2 l power of 150 horsepower. Almost the same Santa has been with me in these parts a year ago, then the machine has proved a convenient, practical, and very, very comfortable. And then - the latest version of the popular SUV in Russia, just like with images: white, bright, well struck by a car, designed to overcome obstacles and to perform the tasks the owner. But, though not without its surprises - the modified engine has demanded the suspension of processing, and the car lost some speed maneuverability. Along the serpentine walk in the dynamic mode was only possible with the ESP switched off and in manual mode automatic transmission. Painfully thoughtful became a diesel Hyundai Santa Fe, too large dips between pressing the gas pedal and a real acceleration. In addition, the cabin quite noisy - Turbine shrill outcry responds to the accelerator, and the noise from the wheel arches above the average. But the machine maneuverability in small areas has not changed, Santa Fe, still well-deployed to Piglet, and does not give chances to many cars passing steep mountain loop serpentine. All so happy and comfortable ergonomic cabin. How many times do not get tired to say that Hyundai cars are focused on people rather than forcing myself to adapt to. But here's cruising range with all this wealth is small - a maximum of 550 km of road at an average speed of 100 km / h with a sharp acceleration to 150 km / h or a loss of up to 40 km / h. And this is the tank of 80 liters. I usually blow off Russia without the navigator, but in Abkhazia last visited 20 years ago, in Georgia just did not go by car, so I had to take care cards. The trouble is that in the Navigator, delivered to the Russian market, maps of these countries do not, so had to use little-known in our device NTW GNT-E350. And once again left to wonder what is going on. At the central Russian market, these comfortable, compact, multimediapleery with might and main function of the navigation are using the inhabitants of the Far East, but in Moscow they have to "get" almost from under the counter. However, I was pleased - NTW GNT-E350 uses a Russian maps and software Navitel Navigator 3.2, it helped me a lot in finding the right street in Sochi. And that was a great and pleasant surprise - even managed to skip the street in Gagra, main roads and settlements in Abkhazia and Georgia! Add to this the opportunity to look at the GNT-E350 movies, read and listen to the book - in large queues at the border and in urban traffic is more than urgent, believe me. Having dealt with the standard Russian customs formalities, which lasted an hour and half, drove to the Abkhaz border zone. During my time here is limited to 10 minutes - buy local insurance OSAGO week costs 150 rubles. A little more expensive than setting the machine to a temporary registration - 250 rubles. Everything. All of them?? Yes, everything I say border guards and customs officers. Enjoy your holiday, drive! I say: how can this be, since I marinated it for almost two hours! Well, the Russian side has its own difficulties, laughing Abkhazians, and we have all done without delay. Your customs officials promised in the near future to make a simplified entry to our republic, so bear with me. Still not believing his luck, so quickly did away with the boundary (in Moscow told me about the queues on the day), moving to an independent republic Apsny (Abkhaz name) or Abkhazeti (Georgian). And right in the eye throws deserted. The first village is empty, but it seems populated. And here is the first post of GAI (incidentally, for the next couple of days it was the only local traffic cop, whom I met). Asking the way to Gagra, talking about his itinerary, kept going the distance. The captain is quite friendly otsovetyvaet me to go through the Kodori Gorge in Georgia - will be killed. He says this quietly, without any strain. For the republic, which is more than 15 years in a state of permanent war, it is normal. Until Gagra far, about 50 miles, I am quite have time to dine there and find the hotel. After the conversation is fun, enjoyable - yet here I am not exactly a stranger, the Russians are very warm and friendly. And then is heard the first call. Call from the Russian Defense Ministry and withdraw my accreditation of peacekeepers in the Kodori Gorge and South Ossetia. As so, what's wrong, why? We can not guarantee your safety there, succinctly informs the chief spokesperson of the Ministry of Defence of the Russian Federation Alexander Petrunin. But just four days ago, he said with a happy smile, which, of course, will be glad to see you there, tell all and show. But here comes SMS from my wife, and everything becomes clear: the Georgian side had fired the Gali district, Abkhazian troops were welcome to return fire. All the joy has faded. Looking back at the resort of natural beauty subtropics, realize the bitter truth: I'm in the military area. Posters on the sides of the road every kilometer spur this thought - 15 years since the victory in the Abkhazian-Georgian conflict. Posters are many, they are almost everywhere. How many monuments, obelisks and memorials to the victims in this massacre. Various sources estimate the loss of the parties in 92-93 years. 4-thousand people from Georgia (another 1000 were missing) and 4 th on the Abkhaz side (how much is lost Abkhazians - nobody knows yet). Argue who is right and who is wrong in this fratricidal war, I'm not going. It's not my business, trying to be neutral. To be continued.
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