Read More. Start here see Hotel in Gagra is fast - 1000 rub. for quite a decent number. Funny: on the first floor of the hotel is located enlistment office, where I first flew, and, after greeting me with the commandant. "And we too will soon become a hotel, they will give our floor," laughs ensign. Of course, will give - five hundred meters from the sea, on the contrary - a sports club, restaurant, such lands would go into the holiday traffic. I am going to the club, Evening already, now will play qualifier between Finland and Russia on football in the 2010 World Cup. The club is almost empty, the Russian company of three people watching the match, a pair of Abkhazians in the room, I sit down next to the owner, his wife and son next to them a relative who, incidentally, lives in Moscow. We talk instantly. Upon learning that I am a journalist from Moscow, I begin to treat home-made wine. The conversation moves to the August conflict with Georgia. People immediately changed, becoming sharp in his statements, the hatred towards Georgians literally comes through in every word. Having learned from me about the attack and response Abkhaz in Gali district, noisy rejoicing, shouting: "Still, we slapped on the ears of those Georgians! Not afraid! "Woman of Nana herself was involved in the fighting 92-93 years. So her speech is very, very adamant:" You think they wanted to live together with us? Yes, nothing like this! They wanted to destroy us like garbage, they just need our territory, and those who have survived, they would be used as slaves! "At this point in the air literally feel the war. Becomes uncomfortable. But, however, fighting mood abruptly come to naught. Abkhazians are hot, but rather othodchivy, prefer to solve problems at the negotiating table. By the way, here quite a motley of believers - there are Muslims, Catholics and Orthodox and grigoriantsy. But, in my opinion, they are more pagans in the best sense of the word. Well, where you have come across a Muslim who would have quietly skewers of pork and drink its delicious, tart wine? However, like any other religious person in Abkhazia. It is assumed here to eat and drink everything that is on the table. But the kebab of lamb I have not met even once. Go for a walk on the night Gagra looking for an internet cafe. City deserted, almost no light. On the one hand, it is because the big holiday season is over, now the off season, but 50 km away, in Sochi, full of life, and then - silence. Incidentally, in the middle of October, the temperature in the Black Sea was +19-20 degrees, so I am quite calmly plunged thrice. Internet cafe located in the backyard, where the boys are cut in the game. My request to connect to the network causes some confusion and panic. I understood everything right - the connection speed is very slow, get to a site only after 5-10 minutes of waiting downloads. Honestly I give $ 25 monthly. 30 minutes sitting next to a blank screen. This evening I finished a game of chess with the hotel guards. Morning to nominate Pitsunda. I finally ceases to carry - the sky is tightened black rain falls on the coast. Then comes the rain for three days, I get wet through to the skin on the photo shoots, but it compensates for the natural beauty of Pitsunda even more deserted than Gagra. Lonely moknet central cross-domed church of X century. It is a large body, there are concerts of classical music. Listening to his steps echoing under the arches and remember the history of this region. The first settlements on the spot Pitsunda refer to the IV century BC. A little later, the Greeks founded the port here, and then the Romans built a fortress. After the collapse of the Great Roman Empire Pitius port entrance to the famous Pont kingdom. This is precisely the part of Colchis, where to send the Argonauts for the Golden Fleece, a place famous and a little fairy. This is the first Christian Centre on the shores of Colchis, the Byzantines built! Not far from Pitsunda died historical character - John Chrysostom, that here he went to visit the blessed place. Very nearly ran out of time and luck. Incidentally, the Abkhaz Kingdom it all the time lacked the "little bit". In the I century AD it is - a powerful independent state, but after 100 years is beginning to affect the influence of neighbors, dynastic marriages lead to strengthening the position of Kartvels and vostochnogruzinskogo language and culture. In the X century the Abkhazian kingdom conquers much of Kakheti and Colchis, taking a territory of the Georgian kingdom. But then comes the heyday of the Ottoman Empire, all further attempts to restore its independence Abkhaz were unsuccessful. Only World War II 92-93 years. As it is called here, brought the long-awaited freedom, but does not yet recognized. This freedom also has its price - Pitsunda seems extinct in the pouring rain, boarding abandoned houses were destroyed, everywhere desolation reigns. Find a cabin communication and changing SIM-card. In all major towns and settlements of Abkhazia are already operating their cellular operators call with A-Mobile in Russia costs about 100 rubles. 10 minutes. In any case it is cheaper than say an international roaming agreement with our Beeline, Megafon and MTS together. But the connection, frankly, not very good, audibility is poor, coverage is poor. So sometimes hang out with "empty" cell phone. Looking around the neighborhood, find sanctuary Pitsunda relict pine. Unfortunately, the declared 200 hectares of land there remained not so much. But how did these giants are great! The road, lined with cypress trees, reminds me of a place near Rome, Italy. Generally, I catch myself thinking that nature here is very similar to the nature of the peninsula, even the buildings remind me a vision, near Venice and Ferrara - open verandas two-storey houses with a mandatory four-poster. Only here is much warmer, the average annual temperature 14 degrees - this is still true subtropics. At night back in Gagra - hotels in Pitsunda not enticing appearance and amenities, go to sleep in luxury resorts such as "boxwood forests" do not think it necessary, 15 km for me not to hook. Next rainy day I spend in Ritsevskom reserve. Even from here go to Sochi buses for tours so that people can touch the ancient boxwood forests to look at the gorgeous mountain lakes and waterfalls. From the main road Gagra-Sukhumi road branches off and abruptly starts to pick up high in the mountains. Incidentally, this stretch of road in quite good condition. Yes, of course, the total devastation in some places tainted canvas, but for falling rocks Abkhazians should be very good - fragments of rock promptly removed from the road on a mountain road ply several patrols for safety of tourists. At the entrance to the reserve - many small cafes, where delicious food and wine. All of a fairly low price - 500 rubles. enough to eat to satiety. Recommend to immediately buy and mountain honey - it is very useful and tasty. About wine and we are not talking - two polutoralitrovye bottles that I brought from Abkhazia, flew into Moscow's campaign in the blink of an eye! Entry into the Reserve itself fee - 250 rubles. from the machine and another for 50 rubles. for each adult, a child should be given to the top 20. Next the road starts to zigzag between the ancient forests, crossing rivers, running past the waterfalls and burrowing their way into mountain tunnels. I do not know when I created these tunnels, but they look very impressive, as if the rock mass dwarfs hacked huge moves, not forgetting to make the walls of windows to the outside world. Places on the track caught the failures, so that the drive here by car is not worth it. Much more pleasant quiet ride those 50 miles, enjoying the beautiful and unspoiled ancient nature. Near the small waterfalls set of ribbons that are tied, zagadyvaya desire. One such place is called "girly tears." Finally, I rise to Ritsu. Of course, not the village attracts tourists, and a huge lake, which spreads in the mountains. It is situated at an altitude of 950 m above sea level in the river valley Lashipsy. The average depth is 63 m, the largest - 116 m. The lake is glacial-tectonic origin, so the average water temperature at the surface of the lake just above 10 ° C. And it was only during the period from late June to October, in August, temperatures can reach the highest point - 17,6 ° C. Then some brave souls risking to plunge into the piercing blue waters of the Ritz. For those who prefer to enjoy the scenery, walks are available on catamarans and numerous restaurants, covered with a shallow part of the coast. Even higher, about five kilometers, lies the secret Stalin's dacha, which is "great leader" liked to visit in the privacy attacks. There the road becomes very narrow and already dangerous, she literally clings to the wall, and on the sidelines, coming down to the lake, everywhere hang warning signs: "Caution: possible collapse!" The beauty here simply extraordinary, I am slowly starting to go to the idea that quitting be to hell with the dusty and noisy Moscow and move here, though forester! From Gagra to Sukhumi 90 km and a stationary post of GAI to Gudauta. And, of course, the constant pitfalls on canvas track. It seems to be a good, smooth fabric. And suddenly the asphalt away from the wheels, the differential between the axles is 20 inches, which is the speed of 120 km per hour leads to a sinking heart and a reflection of the impermanence of life. The roads here have not been repaired, probably since the war 92 th. Incidentally, in the release of Gagra and Gudauta in Georgia war played a major role archenemy Russia - Shamil Basayev. It was after the fighting in those places, he won some fame. Returning to Chechnya, he founded from his fighters notorious Abkhazian battalion having scored big loss to Russian troops in the breakaway Ichkeria. Now Gudauta restored railroad tracks, which are packed platforms to the military machine of the Russian army. Incidentally, the border post I lost a lot of time because of what passed at first convoy of soldiers numbered 26 in the region, and then someone from the authorities with flashing lights with Moscow, Krasnodar and Abkhaz numbers. Near New Athos road deteriorates completely. Large beds of asphalt slid to one side, opened up groundwater and soil. But, thank God, this plot does not last long and before my eyes appears majestic Athos monastery. He is a great color spots stand out against the mountains and greenery. New Athos - the former capital of the Abkhazian kingdom Anakopiya. It is only then moved the capital to Kutaisi, and then still is - the center of the Christian world in the Caucasus. Here, on the slopes of the mountain, you can see the remains of the fortress Anakopia that best preserved ancient building in the territory of Abkhazia. Athos monastery built in the late XIX century, looks at the background of a fortress full of remakes. The irony: once in the early centuries, the Persians Anakopia fortress was defended by the joint efforts of thousands of Georgians and Abkhazians two thousand. Many have laid down their lives in mass graves, but have not conceded to the enemy city. Now they are fighting among themselves Athos Orthodox monastery complex of St. Panteleimon was founded in 1875 by monks who came from Greece, with the holy Mount Athos. Over 12 years of hard work here has been cleared and removed tens of thousands of tons of earth and rock. The task was complicated by the fact that the place of the future monastery was significantly elevated and was not comfortable driveways. Undoubtedly played a role help of the Russian emperor Alexander III, who then enjoyed visiting these places. Still, before the 1917 revolution Athos monastery was one of the major spiritual centers of the Caucasus! Now there are many deserted buildings, destroyed the shop and production, and only a cheerful B & Bs zazvat try to imagine tourists advertising: the sea - here it is, a hundred meters! Previously, it was a resting place of the elect, not far from the monastery is the cave in which, according to legend, would be alone and pray Simon the Zealot, mentioned in the lists of the apostles in the Gospels of Matthew, Mark and Luke and the Acts of the Apostles. The cave is a holy spur huge Athos Cave - a deep caverns beneath the slope of the Iberian mountains. This cave is the third largest in the world, behind only Shkotsianskoy cave in Slovenia and Carlsbad in the U.S.. The volume of space - more than 1 million m3?! It is fair to note that the territory of Abkhazia scattered quite a lot of big and beautiful caves, some of them are in Ritsevskom reserve. To be completed.
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