End. Start read here, South Ossetia - one of the oldest places of human habitation on Earth. Of natural beauty, friendly people, plenty of tasty food has always attracted tourists to this region. And last year's war spurred the curiosity of journalists. Summer day, sunny Tskhinvali looks much more friendly. The city center is decorated with posters and banners, many buildings restored and refurbished. Hotel "Iriston," in which I live, has a noble touch of antiquity, so that her time forgiving creepy rooms without facilities and toilets are crap. Now for many families it is the only place to go. On the second floor there is a union of entrepreneurs, many come here for help in the restoration of economy after the war. So do not wonder at the abundance of luxury SUVs in the field of view: business people - special people. They are quite normal to go off-road cost of several million rubles, when their countrymen and relatives, sometimes, nothing to eat. In the city center rather crowded. In the renovated building, administration and government boils turbulent life. I stand up for accreditation to the department for relations with the press and I understand that from the outside better than inside - the people sitting in offices without doors, hastily made repairs and somehow retrieved wire. A lot of people in camouflage uniforms and with weapons - there is also a Ministry of Defence of South Ossetia. Journalistic accreditation looks like an ordinary little paper of document format is the same size as my TC Kia Carens. And only the official stamp of South Ossetia on this paper now gives me the right photos and video on its territory. I asked the attendant, and this is necessary? In principle, he says, of course, you can do without permission, but if you have to deal with armed men, it is better still, to err. I'll tell you that the Defense Ossetian checkpoint in the town I was not allowed to photograph even with this accreditation. Released Russian major, was presented, and sent for a special permit to the general with the same Russian name, which, it turns out, is the chief operations officer. And it really surprised me that I was not allowed to remove the car on the background of entry into the Roki Tunnel. This passage for hundreds of thousands of times in all the details shown on all international TV channels, but I, a Russian journalist, was not allowed to simply take a picture of a car on a background of black, gaping holes in the rock. Level of secrecy, almost to the attack by the guard, I was impressed. Inside Kia Carens fairly well distributed air flow - when I drove the car from the parking lot at 30 degree heat, then get into it was well tolerated. Over half of my running around the chain of command, the machine is in direct sun warmed strongly, and this should always be remembered for those going by car to go in the hot areas - are very desirable reflective screen saver for windows. Dark color salon also serves as a decoy sunlight, so sun-warmed leather seats are sometimes simply impossible to sit down. Carens but without the vagaries of wound up, I ran the air conditioner, and we went to see the town during the day. Tskhinvali, like most cities in the Caucasus, rather heterogeneous in structure. Particular areas suddenly replaced paneled condominium, forming a chaotic pile of stone, without any perspective view. The city's name is "pure" Georgian roots - before it was called Krtshinvali, and in 1934 was renamed Stalinir, in honor of Joseph Vissarionovich. Georgian sounds familiar Tshivali returned to him in 1961, but local Ossetians still at home using their name - Chreba. Literally one block from the central area of ??the former Stalinira the buildings start to come across the traces of hostilities in 2008 - vyscherbleny from bullets, tan, and a former central department store and is completely burned and destroyed. Plain, rough plaster new homes is not too expensive, so, examining the traces of the shots, I could not help wonder, and where did the money go that Russia allocates to restore the republic? Private sector during the war suffered more than the high-rise areas, can be seen with the naked eye. Although, of course, the "skyscrapers" also lacks traces of fights. In some places the concrete building is literally split by bullets - here, in a window or a corner room, were fortified machine gun or sniper point, which was conducted intensive fire. In Grozny, Chechnya, is the area of ??"Minute", in Tskhinvali, has a similar area. Footage of the two wrecked her tanks spread all over the world. The Broken Tower one of the Georgian T-72 so far, even after a year, at an angle of stuck in the asphalt, said that the muzzle gone deep into the ground and it is very difficult to extract. Tshinvaltsy think so, and leave it hanging around as a monument to war. To another area and its adjacent "Jewish quarter", as intense fighting took place. Here is one of the oldest temples in the former USSR XI-XII centuries. Now this Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Cathedral of the Diocese of Alanian. On the facade of the building stand out crosses, a form characteristic of the Georgian Orthodox Church, the tip of which strongly resemble the heraldic lilies of the French kings, the same as the flag of Georgia. Of course, the masonry fence of the temple has been redone many times, now it's plain brick wall, but the walls are made of solid, skillfully carved out of craggy rocks and stones. In general, Tskhinvali, of course, produces a painful impression. Dilapidated stadium on the outskirts of the skeletons of factory buildings, lots of windows tightened the film, the glass is still there in a big deficit. I am going to the basis of long-suffering Russian peacekeepers. On the approach meets the "gay" label on the Russian and Georgian: "Mine!" Laconic and capacitance. To take photographs, go to the post, I ask permission. Journalists are already tired of the young captain, but he lets me take some pictures. Destroy the barracks to the ground are impressive. Suddenly rolls anxiety and want to quickly leave. And a small bar. Going to the basis of peacekeepers leave the car for four quarters, but in the line of sight. Almost immediately stopped the jeep in which sits a local military family and recommends not to throw the car here. I make round eyes: how do, they say, it will also be on my mind! Anything can happen, evasively explained by the military and offers to leave Kia Carrens under his supervision. On the way back, I thank him and ask what he was then engaged. It turns out, helps to organize the demolition of houses of relatives. An elderly relative tells us that in August of 2008 to its zhilishu drove Georgian tank and began to shoot him at point blank range. Why this house - nobody knows. Dozens of such near here. And immediately next to a kindergarten, a fence which is perforated shells and bullets. In these places were the most fierce battles. In the following days I look around the outskirts of Tskhinvali. Some attractions are so remote places that Kia Carrens not get there, we need a serious off-roader. But the oldest monastery in the area of ??the XII century to drive still fails. The road to it lies through the destroyed Georgian villages. Looking around the skeletons of buildings, I understand that Georgians here do not come back. Or return if there is not the Ossetians. Lifeless ruins of which are rendered all. Stone desert, which will soon disappear, as the local Ossetians have to rebuild their houses. The road to the monastery I offered to show the local history teacher. His "eared" Cossack stuck in a river. I in no way able to help slain starter Zaza, and he waved his hand and took me off. You would never find the monastery itself, he said to me, and he was right. Temple of the XII century hiding on a hillside so that the road simply can not see! A narrow path leads to a massive old doors, opening that ends up in the monastery courtyard. "Here we now have only one priest, came and looked, and the rest, skaal history teacher. - "Before coming here to pray the people of four nearby villages, but now in the mountains there are fewer and fewer people." The ancient monastic cells carved into the rock. The owner was away on business. I asked, but whether in its absence fumble here? It is possible, he will not mind, we do not take anything. The priest, apparently went on a hunt. In his cell is cover from a shotgun, a modest utensils and religious affiliation. In the church ready to worship - altar, books, little icons. It is evident that before the walls were decorated with murals, but during the fire then burnt out, the conductor explains to me. When I went to the monastery on the other hand, is just delighted - he cleave to the mountain as Mount Athos monastery in Greece! This is a truly unique, historic sites, how sad that there is always some kind of war t! In the outskirts of Tskhinvali, in Samachablo (this name of this area came under President Gamsakhurdia, on behalf of the local Georgian princes Machabeli) set of monuments. Here, a lot of watch towers that were built for mountaineers warning of the enemy. The old brickwork on the background of ancient mountains makes them like the characters of a historical movie. I can not believe that such an entourage could survive in our high tech age. As I have said, to many ancient monuments around on a normal car quite difficult, so I give myself I need to return here. And while "saddling" faithful Kia Carrens, we still have 2000 km return trip. Back through the Roki Tunnel, along the M29 and M4 back to Moscow.
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